Electric Kilns are ideal for firing Art Clay and PMC metal clays, making jewellery, adding gold highlights, annealing glass beads, fusing dichroic glass, firing ceramics, pottery, stoneware, raku, baking polymer clays, stained glass, lampwork, melting silver, casting glass, sagging, slumping, china painting, porcelain dolls, enamelling, dentistry, laboratory testing, and heat treating.

The most popular kiln in the UK is the Paragon SC-2, shown in the photo. It's ideal for Art Clay, PMC, Accent Gold, Metal Clay Veneer, Fimo Polymer Clay, dichroic glass, glass fusing, small-scale glass sagging and slumping, decorating china, painting dolls, enamels, decals, and low-fire ceramics.

Other popular Paragon kilns are the BlueBird, EZ Beader, and SC-2B for annealing beads; the Fusion, GL, and Pearl for glass; the Caldera, Janus, and TNF for glass and ceramics; and the Home Artist, SC-2W, SC2-BW, and Xpress E and Q multi-purpose kilns. To learn more about the Paragon SC2, and other Paragon kilns, use the Paragon Kilns link above the menu bar.

The most popular small kiln in the UK is the Kitiki Mini-Kiln. It's ideal for Art Clay, PMC, Accent Gold, Metal Clay Veneer, Fimo Polymer Clay, jewellery, dichroic glass, glass fusing, painting china, decals, and enamels. To learn more about the MiniKiln, use the Electric Kilns link above the menu bar.

If you've used a kiln before, or if you've researched the subject, you may already know what you want. If not, let's look at some of the things that will influence your decision:

Kitiki tested a selection of kilns, some UK made and some imported from Japan, Germany, and the US. We chose the US make Paragon, generally recognised as the best.

They combine robust reliability, the best materials, and safe practical designs, at a realistic price: and have 40 years of manufacturing experience built in. Paragon has continually introduced new techniques and technologies, for example:

Kiln elements are made from the finest high-temperature wire available: and are pre-stretched and pre-shaped at the corners for easy replacement using quick-fit heat-dissipating connectors.

Digital programmers use nickel-plate copper wire with high-temperature glass-braided insulation and are heat protected and ventilated.

The SC-2 can be used on a regular work top. It's light enough to be moved easily, it only needs a regular 13A socket, it stays safely cool in use, and it looks a bit like an industrial microwave. Most other kilns need their own work space and look like studio kilns: you can see firebricks, ceramic muffles, bare metal, and nuts and bolts.

Wherever you use your kiln, you'll need somewhere to put hot shelves, such as on a ceramic fibre block or in a tray of vermiculite. For easy and safe working, you need space around the kiln, and ventilation,

If you're using a kiln, there's always a slight risk that you'll have an accident with hot metal or set fire to something. It's important to have a fire extinguisher, nearby. Read the instructions as soon as you unpack it, learn how to treat burns, buy a basic first aid kit, and fit a smoke alarm.

Although kilns have a maximum rated temperature, they're not designed to be run at that temperature continuously. For example, although the SC-2 is suitable for dichroic glass, and glass fusing, sagging, and slumping, it won't melt most glasses: pure glass doesn't melt until about 1700°C and, even then, it's like syrup on a cold day.

Most modern kilns use an electronic programmer, or controller, such as the Sentry Xpress. A programmer allows you to set accurate drying, heating, holding, and cooling sequences: and do something else whilst the sequence is running. The programmers are easy to use, and the sequences can be saved for the future.
Paragon programmers do not have pre-set programmes: you can easily set up and re-use your own. Although pre-sets might seem useful, you won't be able to experiment, or try or use other materials or firing sequences.
Buying a kiln without a programmer, means that you become a kiln-sitter and have to manually control the heating and cooling rates. You can't just set up a sequence and leave it to run.

Kiln outer dimensions include the programmer and any other hardware. Conventionally, the dimensions are given in the order: length, width, and height. The first two represent the flat space needed. Weight is usually the shipping weight, including the weight of the recommended furniture kit: about 5% of this is packing.

In case you're interested in platinum jewellery: platinum melts at 1773°C so a platimum clay would probably need to fire at around 1600°C, beyond the maximum temperature of conventional kilns.

A larger kiln allow you to fire larger pieces, or more pieces at the same time. However, you need to be able to get it through the doors to your work area.

A kilns rated at over 3000W needs a separate circuit run from the fusebox. If you want to learn more about volts, amps, and watts, go to start, then safety.

With a front-loading kiln, it's easy to arrange your work on a shelf and then put it all in the kiln. Don't put any work on the unprotected floor of the firing chamber. If you're working with children, front-loaders are easier to fill up and empty.

Remember with a top-loading kiln that, when you lift the lid and look in, a lot of very hot air will rise up. Also, with a tall top-loading kiln, you may need steps. It isn't easy, or safe, to remove shelves of fired work and put in new shelves of unfired work until the kiln has cooled down.

For working with Art Clay and PMC, nearly everyone chooses the Paragon SC-2. For everything else, there's quite a lot to think about. Here's a checklist:

DAMAGED IN TRANSIT

Your kiln will usually be delivered by one of the well-known shipping companies, such as Fedex, UPS, Amtrak, or City Link. When you sign for it, write unexamined by your signature. If there's any damage, don't touch the packing and call the shipping company.

OVER IN A FLASH

Before using your kiln, a basic awareness of electrical safety is important to avoid popping the fuse repeatedly, burning out the mains cables, or getting a shock. The following comments are generalisations, so make sure you learn about your own work environment.

If you're using your kiln in a kitchen, remember that devices with heaters such as kettles, toasters, washing machines, and dishwashers, if used at the same time, may overload the circuit. If you're not sure, ask an electrician.

The UK SC-2 and SC-3 come with a 1.8 metre cable ending in a regular UK 230V plug. They're 1745W kilns, so you can use any mains socket. The plug needs a 13A fuse. If your kiln is more than 3000W, it will probably need a separate fused circuit.

If you use an extension lead, it should be heavy duty and not more than 5.0 metres long. Extension leads should never be used coiled or whilst on a drum as heat will build up. Make sure that you don't have loose cables where you walk.

If you install a new circuit for your workshop, always put the kiln on its own fuse. Otherwise, if any other device fails, the kiln could stop mid-programme, and probably spoil your work.

If you replace the supplied cable, make sure that you replace it with one that is rated for the necessary current. You may void the warranty, so check first.

If you're going to extend the main power supply to another building, make sure that the new cable cannot be cut with a spade, lawn mower, or hedge trimmer; or be a risk to children. Use a cable rated for a higher current than you need: if the kiln needs 30A, use 45A. You only want to do the job once, so plan ahead in case you get a larger kiln one day?

As with all electrical equipment, don't get the kiln wet and don't touch it with wet hands. Although some kilns have a built-in safety cut-out, all equipment in a work environment should plug into an electronic safety-trip adapter. Always unplug the kiln when it's not in use, you're cleaning it, or it's being serviced.

PLAN AHEAD

If you're working with electric kilns and butane torches you need to be aware of the risks, however slight. It's important to have a fire extinguisher, nearby. Read the instructions as soon as you unpack it, learn how to treat burns, buy a basic first aid kit, and fit a smoke alarm.

Kilns, such as the SC-2 and SC-3 have an outer steel case slotted for air circulation, and the layer of air between the outer and inner steel cases keeps the outside cool. The electrical components and the safety cut-out, located in the base, stay cool, even at extended hold times. So it can stand on a table or kitchen top. However, things you take out will be very hot and you need somewhere to rest them while they cool. And remember that fired pieces will be hot for some time.

The SC-2 ceramic fibre liner is heat resistant. However, it's not hard so take care using tools to place or remove pieces.

Although the SC-2 door catch can be adjusted, don't tighten it too much as your pieces may fall over inside as you pull against it.

Always close the lid or door when you've finished using the kiln to prevent dust accumulating. Don't get into the habit of using the top, or a top-opening lid, as a workspace, storage area, or coffee table.

Kilns need to be in an open ventilated space, not in a cupboard or closet. They should be at least 300mm from any vertical surface and, if you have two, at least 1000mm apart. Do not put them under a heat-sensitive fire sprinkler.

If your kiln comes with a stand, don't abandon it and put the kiln on firebricks as this will prevent the natural flow of air around the kiln and change it's firing characteristics. If it comes with a vent, this needs to connect to the outide: not another room.

Kilns such as the SC-2 and SC-3 keep cool enough to stand on a normal table. Kilns such as the QF-6 need to be on a heat-resistant surface. Kilns like the Janus 27 need to be on the floor: a heat-resistant floor not a wooden floor.

If the room is protected by a fire-prevention sprinkler system, don't position the kiln under a sprinkler or a heat sensor: the whole system might come on and flood the building. Ask about getting a smoke sensor instead of a heat sensor.

Make sure that no one can touch the kiln who doesn't understand what a kiln is and the sort of temperatures used during firing.

Although kilns have programmers and built-in safety cut-outs, don't leave your kiln on if you leave the house or go to bed.

Most heating devices smell when used for the first few times, so use the kiln in a well-ventilated room. The stainless steel casing, or the paint, may eventually discolour, particularly around the door.

As the ceramic chamber expands and contracts in use, small cracks may appear. These are normal and harmless, and will not affect the firing.

The relays used with programmers usually click as the heating elements are turned on and off to keep a steady temperature. If you're working with other people, tell them that the clicking is normal: otherwise they might think it's a fault and turn the kiln off.

High temperature elements can be destroyed by contact with silica and silica compounds, and by reduction firing. Read the notes that come with your kiln.

Inside the firing chamber, a heat-sensitive thermocouple, connected to the programmer, projects into the firing space. If you accidently push it back, it can't give accurate readings and the kiln will overheat. Although the programmer provides error messages to report problems, it won't warn you about this.

Firing Art Clay can leave very faint traces of silver in the pores of the ceramic firing chamber. This may affect the colour of some glasses, so always do a colour test first.

If you're stacking several shelves or firing pieces that nearly fill the firing chamber, make sure that there's 25mm clear space around the thermocouple, or it won't be able to read the temperature acurately.

Kiln wash and glass separator are finely ground minerals that don't fuse at normal firing temperatures. They prevent glazes and glass sticking to the shelf. To learn more about glass separator, go to start, then materials, then glass.

At high temperatures, glazes melt and will stick to anything. Always stand work on a protected shelf, not on the exposed firing chamber floor.

Some glazes may release toxic chemicals into food or drink. Make sure that you use an approved and tested product, applied and fired as recommended.

Art Clay has recommended firing programmes. Kilns with electronic programmers, such as the Paragon SC-2, are ideal, as you can set the rate, temperature, and hold time. And you can leave them on whilst you do something else.

For kilns without comprehensive programmers, such as the Kitiki MiniKiln, the temperature guage is a continual reminder. If you leave it on too long, or go off for a snack, it will overheat and probably ruin your work or the kiln.

If you're working at low temperatures, the temperature can overshoot briefly before the programmer turns off the heating element. Ramp up slowly, and keep an eye on the temperature.

In any creative process, there's always a degree of experiment. If something works well, you may want to repeat the successful firing cycle. So, buy a book and keep a firing log of times and temperatures, including the success of the end result.

Ideally, Art Clay needs firing for a set time at a set temperature. Although, with practice, you can fire small pieces on a kitchen gas hob, on a camping gaz ring, or with a kitchen torch, it's very difficult to check that all parts of the piece have sintered properly. Also, too much heat will turn your piece into a blob. A kitchen oven doesn't reach a high enough temperature.

DRESSING UP THE KILN

The SC2 and SC3 come with a 6mm thick ceramic fibre getting-started shelf, designed for Art Clay, not glass or ceramics.

With all kilns, never fire anything on the bottom of the firing chamber, particularly as glaze or enamelling drips can be asbsorbed into the ceramic fibre and ruin the element.

Kilns don't always come with furniture kits, so check before you buy. Extra shelves and posts ordered separately may be heavy or need special protective packing, so there is usually an extra delivery charge.

A kit usually consists of the appropriate shelf, or shelves, and a set of shelf posts. The shelf is made of cordierite, a magnesium aluminium silicate that resists thermal distortion and fracture.

Normally, pieces are put into the kiln on a shelf. When they've been fired, the shelf is taken out and put on a tray of vermiculite, or on some other heat-resistant surface, to cool.

Depending on your work and the size of the kiln, shelves can be stacked to make better use of the firing programme: you can fire more together if you put in the first shelf, then four ceramic fibre posts, then another shelf on top.

Shelf posts are made of the same material. Some people use three, as there's no chance of the shelf rocking: although four minimises the risk of the shelf tipping if you put a heavy piece off-centre.

The shelf is brittle so, if you drop the shelf, it will break. Don't try to repair them: if they break again, it will be just as you put your delicate unfired pieces in the kiln.

If you've washed a shelf, or it's got wet, you need to dry it before firing, or the water will turn to steam and the pressure increase may crack or shatter the shelf. It's unlikely, but it could explode, so wear safety glasses.

Although shelves last a long time, the continual expansion and contraction will cause surface cracks: this is normal. Providing a shelf doesn't look as though it will break, you can carry on using it.

Shelves and posts are available for most kilns. For example, the SC-2 shelves are 170mm x 170mm x 15mm and the posts are 25mm x 25mm in heights of 12mm, 25mm, 50mm, 75mm, and 150mm. Smaller shelves can be used in larger kilns.

A fairly common configuration is to use the original SC-2 thin ceramic fibre shelf as a base with two shelves and eight posts above. Shelves and posts ordered separately may be heavy or need special protective packing, so it's best to order some with the kiln.

If you're using your kiln in a garden shed or a garage, check that you don't have any paints, volatile inflammable solvents, petrol, a lawnmower, or a car, in the same space. Ventilate the area.

Never put insulation around a kiln to try to conserve energy. The wiring and the programmer will overheat, and may burn out.

Before it's fired, greenware, or unfired clay, needs to be dried to evaporate the water: just like Art Clay. If you don't dry it completely, the water will turn to steam during firing and the pressure increase may crack or shatter the clay. It's unlikely, but it could explode, so wear safety glasses.

Generally, let your work cool before taking it out of the kiln to avoid thernal shock. Never fire tempered glass as it could explode.

Keep the kiln free from dust and other debris. Instead of blowing it everywhere or brushing it on the floor, use a hand-held vacuum cleaner.
Kitiki uses a hand-held battery-powered mini-vac that runs off 4 AA batteries. It has an extendable brush nozzle and a removable washable dust collector. It's also useful for getting the biscuit crumbs out of your keyboard.

After firing ceramics, leave your piece in the kiln to cool naturally. If you take it out too soon, it may crack from thermal shock.

When you fire your pieces, use some of the empty shelf space to fire small test materials and shapes. It's a good way to learn.

Kilns measure the firing chamber temperature using a thermocouple: a metal or ceramic-sheathed rod that extends a short way into the firing chamber.

When thermocouples fail, the temperature display often becomes erratic or inaccurate. Occasionally, problems are caused by a loose thermocouple connection, a bare spot on the thermocouple wire touching the kiln case, or the thermocouple touching the kiln case.

Some thermocouples do drift with age but usually at higher temperatures than in, for example, an SC-2. Using a pyrometric cone is a simple way of checking the kiln temperature.

DEGREES OF SERVICE

Although Paragon kilns are very robust and rarely need attention, you do need to think about what will happen if you damage your kiln or it goes wrong.

Most retailers and distributors say they can get spare parts. This often means that they'll be ordered for inclusion with the next shipment. Unless imports arrive regularly, it may take four weeks to get them and, unless they have repair facilities and use competent in-house engineers, you could lose the use of your kiln for six weeks.

Consequently, owners sometimes had to return them to the US for service or repair. However, the two-way shipping charges and the overall down-time were still a serious setback for a small business.

Within the UK, Kitiki will accept your kiln for service or repair and usually begin work on it the same day. However, it will need to be re-packed safely so, before you unpack your new kiln, remember how it was packed or crated, keep the original packing, and take a photo.

Although we service and repair kilns here, it may be easier for us to send you the parts and for a local engineer to do the work, avoiding the two-way shipping charges and the delay. To help you make a decision, here are three examples:

It costs £11 and takes one working day to send a 16kg SC-2 from anywhere in the UK to anywhere else in the UK, by City Link. It costs £48 and takes four working days to send it from anywhere in the UK to anywhere in France.

It costs £425 and takes eight working days to send a 180kg Janus 27 kiln from anywhere in the UK to Paragon in the US. The SC-2 fits in a cardboard box, whereas the Janus needs to be crated.

Kitiki can't keep every part for every kiln in stock all the time. Although we always order out-of-stock parts promptly, there's often a manufacturer's delay, a public holiday, an import document discrepancy, a trainee delivery driver, traffic chaos, or some other complication. I know waiting is distressing but, unless you're really competent and have tools and test equipment, don't try to repair kilns at home.

DEGREES OF SERVICE

If you feel that you can check and test your own kiln, remember that dust acts like an insulator on electronic parts, and could cause them to overheat. Blow the dust away: don't use a brush as you could generate static electricity and damage the controller chip.